Ultraviolet protective performance of photoprotective lipsticks: change of spectral transmittance because of ultraviolet exposure.

BACKGROUND Photoinstability of sunscreens because of ultraviolet (UV) exposure is a well-known and common phenomenon. Recently, it was also shown that sunscreens with complex filter combinations are photoinactivated by UV exposures, which can easily be acquired by solar exposure over several hours. OBJECTIVES To assess the change of the spectral transmission after UV exposure (UV-challenged protective performance) of 27 commercially available photoprotective lipsticks. METHODS Quartz slides were covered with a lipstick layer (area density 1.0+/-0.1 mg/cm2) and irradiated with increasing doses of solar-simulated radiation. The spectral transmission (T) was measured spectrophotometrically before and after 5, 12.5, 25, and 50 standard erythema doses (SED) of exposure. We calculated the change in transmission (photoinstability) as the difference between the spectral transmission before and after a defined UV exposure, DeltaT, and the arithmetic mean, for both the UVA (DeltaTA) and UVB (DeltaTB) ranges. A product was labelled as photounstable if the mean photoinstability in the UVA, DeltaTA, or UVB range, DeltaTB, was higher than 5% for an UV exposure of 12.5 SED. RESULTS Eleven products showed a significant photoinstability in the UVA range (DeltaTA between 6% and 27%), only one product in the UVB range (DeltaTB = 13%), and one product in both the UVA (DeltaTA = 31%) and UVB (DeltaTB = 9%) range. In one product photoinstability became significant in the UVA range at higher UV exposures. CONCLUSIONS Out of 27 lipsticks only 13 products showed a photostable performance (DeltaTA < 5% and DeltaTB < 5% for 12.5 SED). We propose therefore that only products, which fulfil these UV photostability criteria should be marketed.